Ajuste de valvulas
Mas aire en el sistema, mas ploc ploc y back fire.
Cuando salia rapido el motor no respondia, tuve 3 encuentros cercanos de esta manera.
Cuando vi que mi vida corria peligro y despues de hacer un poco de tiempo, decidi volverla a llevar para reclamarles, y la vieron de mala gana. En la segunda vez los sintomas fueron estos:
Siguen los ploc ploc del escape
Ritmo irregular del motor
Se apagaba cuando el motor estaba idle.
Asi que decidi apartar tiempo y le meti mano. Primero publico el material que ya esta en linea y despues agrego unas cuantas imagenes que pueden ser de ayuda.
Pick a nice spot and get the bike up on a stand. This is optional, you can do it in the driveway just as well, but I prefer to have the bike straight and the added height makes it easier on the old back. Engine must be stone cold!!! You cannot properly check / adjust the valves on a hot bike. Should set overnight or several hours without running. Service manual calls for engine to be below 95º F.




You will have to remove the PAIR valve bracket and hose to slide it out of the way. Remove the timing hole cover and timing hole cap to view the index marks

The timing cap is located beneath the shiny plasti-chrome timing cover. Remove it



Remove the valve covers. To adjust the front, rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the “FT” mark on the drive with the index mark. When you are adjusting the valves on the front cylinder, you should be on the "FT" mark. Remove one plug from each cylinder to make it easier to turn the engine. Make sure you are on the compression stroke by grabbing the rocker arms and wiggling them. All three - both intakes and the exhaust should wiggle. If they don’t move, you will need to rotate the crank one full turn. Both intakes and the exhaust are adjusted with the engine in this position. Valves are adjusted with a 10 mm offset box and a 4 mm open end. Specs for the 1300 are: Intake .006 ± .001 and Exhaust is .012 ± .001 INCHES.
I noted a lot of 1800 riders are using these instructions too.....the specs are different for the 1800, they are: Intake .005 ± .001 , Exhaust .013 ± .001 INCHES for the VTX 1800.
If a valve is out of spec, when you loosen it, add a drop or two of engine oil to the adjusting threads and seating surface
La clave esta en tomar la medida adecuada, una mas alta y una baja, Cuando tengan la medida adecuada, pasenle la alta y esta tiene que pasar con dificultad o no pasa, luego tomen la baja y esta tiene que pasar muy facilmente. Despues cuando vayan a apretar la tuerca para dejar la medida correcta les recomiendo lo siguiente: introduzcan el gauge mas alto y dejenlo ahi y luego aprieten la tuerca. Esto se los recomiendo ya que es bien sensible esa tuerca y facilmente se mueve cuando lo estamos apretando. Una vez lo aprieten vuelvan a pasar el gauge con la medida correcta para estar seguros. No se les olvide estar en compresion, es decir agarren el rocket y muevanlo, tiene que hacer un ligero tick hacia los lados.
Here is a shot with the “FT” mark aligned with the index to find Top Dead Center on the front cylinder

Align the index mark to the “RT” on the drive to do the rear cylinder. Same specs. Again...all three valves on the rear cylinder (2 intakes and 1 exhaust) are adjusted with the timing mark on "RT".

Here is a shot with the “RT” mark aligned with the index to find Top Dead Center on the rear cylinder. Remember to be sure you are on the compression stroke by grabbing the rocker arms (all three) and wiggling them.

When you button everything back up, clean off the o-rings and check for nicks or tears. If they are in poor shape, they’ll need to be replaced (my originals are still on). Lubricate all the o-rings with clean engine oil. The exhaust and timing cap threads get a coating of grease.
Torque Values:
(4) Intake cover bolts – 11 lbs/ft
(1) Timing hole cap - 13 lbs/ft
(6) Socket bolts for plasi-chrome cover – 7 lbs/ft
(4) Spark plugs – 10 lbs/ft (Use a small amount of non-copper based anti seize on the threads)
(1) 10mm air cleaner mounting bolt – 7 lbs/ft
(3) Phillips air cleaner screws – 2.9 lbs/ft
Pictured are the tools I used – a 10mm offset box, feeler gauges, and a 4 mm open end. I had to shorten up the .012 so it wouldn’t hit the radiator while doing the front.
I used these offest gauges from Sears....still had to trim to fit. Be sure to remove any burr from trimming them.: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00940802000&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools
Y eso es todo, otras imagenes que pueden ser de su interes:
La foto anterior es para que tengan una imagen del espacio disponible.
Y eso es todo, siempre se escucha un tick tick tick en el motor y eso es bueno. No es bueno cuando no escuchas nada. Ante la duda SIEMPRE es mejor dejarlas sueltas que apretadas. OJO. si las dejas muy apretadas te puede calentar mucho el motor y quemar el piston.
Listo, dormiran tranquilos sabiendo lo que se le ha hecho a la moto y que lo han dejado bien. Recuerden hacerlo en el compression stroke.
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